That, and a big Paco drum dryer that turned out perfect ferrotypes. It was one of the perks of working for a city newspaper in my college years. It's also an expensive solution to build and operate, and the right gear is hard to find these days. That's stable and carries away spilled chemicals. An alternate to an electronic thermostatic bath is a shallow sink with a thermostatic water valve. In "the day," I would mix hot and cold water in such a tray, but the requirement was only 75 deg F, which is far easier to maintain. A foam picnic cooler, cut down to an appropriate depth, helps reduce conduction loss. They are available commercially, but some people have adapted tropical fish tank equipment to this purpose. The best answer is to have tank or tray with an electric heater and a circulating pump. It is very hard to maintain the temperature of the first and second developers at 100 deg F within 1/4 deg. Temperature control is vital, and a degree or two makes a significant difference. Formulas for bleach can be found on line, and in some photographic manuals. Liquid C-41 bleach and Blix are subject to strict (HAZMAT) shipping restrictions. If residual silver is causing your problem (and even if not), it is better to make your own bleach from easily obtained (and non-HAZMAT) chemicals (like potassium ferricyanide and potassium bromide), then use conventional quick fix as the final stage (also non-HAZMAT). The problem is Bleach and Fixer react with each other too. The bleach is supposed to oxide the silver, and the fixer removes this oxide just like it removes undeveloped silver halide grains from B&W film.
The color developer uses this silver to catalyze the color reaction in each layer. Does the C-41 Press Kit use a combined bleach and fixer (called Blix)? Blix often fails to remove all of the silver, which makes the film seem dark, grainy and with distorted color.Ĭ-41 film has silver, which is developed in the first solution just like in black and white film. Even with the most careful procedures, problems still occur. Do it yourself, it is tremendously easy.A lot of things will affect the color, including time, temperature and preparation of the developing kit solutions. After the first 10 rolls, add 30 seconds to the development time for each five rolls to compensate for diminishing chemicals.Īll of the following photos were shot with various cameras on various C41 films, processed with the jobo kit. I've pushed my kits to around 40 rolls with pleasing results.
This kit is rated for 8 rolls, which is just too conservative.
#Jobo c 41 press kit iso#
I added a bit of photoflo to the stabilizer to break the surface tension for drying.Įvery C41 film follows these steps, there is no deviation between films, unless you're push/pulling, but I never do that, as most ISO speeds I use are readily available.
Step Five-Stabilizer (Room Temperature for one minute) Pour this into the tank, and leave in for 1 minute. Step Four-Wash (95-105 degrees for 3 minutes) I just let the sink run into the tank, pouring out every few minutes. Same as above, agitate for the first 30 seconds, then 5 seconds every 30 seconds after that. Step Three-Blix (95-105 degrees for 6 minutes 30 seconds). Pour the developer in the tank, and agitate for for the first 30 seconds, then for 5 seconds every 30 seconds after. Step Two-Developer (102 degrees for 3 minutes 30 Seconds). Just pour it into your tank, agitate or don't, it really does not matter much.
#Jobo c 41 press kit full#
Step One-Presoak (I keep a 1 liter Dr Pepper bottle full of water in my sink). I use the 1 liter kit, so you should end up with 1 liter when you're all set.Īfter you have loaded your film in complete darkness, and put it into your tank, and you've heated up your chemicals, they should be 102 degrees fahrenheit, you're all set to begin. The instructions indicate how exactly to mix them.
You need to begin by mixing the chemicals. So, now that you have everything all ready, lets start. Any thermometer that goes above 100 is fine.Ĭ41 Kit-I use a unicolor kit from Freestyle.įilm Clips-I just use binder clips, they are readily available and cheap.Ī sink with running water-You want to make sure you have a steady supply of water ready.Ī changing bag-You can use a completely dark closet or bathroom, I made my own bag from two black trash bags, some velcro, and a lot of black duct tape. Reels- I use the samigon reels, they are best for 35mm-120 film, and everything in between.Ī thermometer, as the temperatures need to be close to exact. Processing tank- Personally, I have found the Paterson 3 reel tank perfect. The materials you will need are the exact same as you needed for the black and white processing, however, I will post the list here as well. Processing your own color film is just as easy, if not easier, than processing black and white film.
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